Sri Lanka FAM showcases abundance of wildlife at Yala National Park

Travel Press Today recently travelled to Sri Lanka right before the devastation caused by Cyclone Ditwah. We held off on publishing this FAM report until the destination was ready for travellers to return. 

As the country continues the difficult work of recovery, we’re sharing this story not only to highlight the remarkable experiences Sri Lanka offers travellers, but also to honour the spirit and resilience of the communities who welcomed us so kindly. We met so many warm and generous people throughout our trip, and they have been in our thoughts and hearts. Read on to learn about our adventure! 

Our recent Sri Lanka FAM tour ended on a high with a wildlife safari in Yala National Park. Yala is the most visited wilderness park in the country and covers nearly 1,000 square kilometres of protected land. The terrain includes forests, grasslands and lagoons, which support one of the highest leopard densities in the world and an impressive variety of other wildlife.

But before our group jumped into the jeep, there was a small ritual we had to complete. Buddhini Bodhikotuwa, manager at Jetwing Jungle Lodge, brought us some coins wrapped in ribbons, along with a marker, and instructed us to write our names on them and then tie them to the tree outside.

“This is a tradition we do before going into the jungle,” she said and explained that it was believed to offer protection and that some people also set an intention or made a wish.

“I hope we spot a leopard,” I whispered under my breath as I tied the coin to the ribbon-laden branch.

Though this park has the highest density of these powerful and elusive predators in the world, there is no guarantee of a sighting, and our guide had cautioned against getting our expectations up.

Photos by Jennifer Merrick

But our hopes were high as we bumped along the red dirt road, weaving around potholes, binoculars in hand. It did not take long before we spotted wildlife: water buffalo submerging themselves in the mud, mongooses weaving through the underbrush, colourful tropical birds like parakeets and bee-eaters perching on branches and herds of deer grazing in the grass.

Some species were familiar and others I had never heard of. Sri Lanka is one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots, home to hundreds of endemic species found nowhere else. The Sri Lankan sloth bear is one of these. These omnivores feed mostly on termites and honeycombs, and they have long claws that help them dig. Our guide said they avoided human contact and were not prone to attack, but they do stand on their hind legs with a “zombie look in their eyes”. One had recently been spotted, and our guide took us to where it had been seen. We waited while scanning the bushes with our binoculars, but unfortunately the sloth bear did not make an appearance.

We rambled on, spotting more birds, deer, crocodiles, monkeys and even the massive legs of an elephant hidden behind thick foliage. My favourite moments were when the jeep’s engine was turned off, and we could watch the birds and animals with the sounds of the wild echoing through the breeze. It was so peaceful that I completely forgot about my leopard wish.

The safari was nearing the end, and we started to make our way back to the resort. On the road, another jeep stopped, and the guides exchanged a flurry of animated conversation.

“Hang on,” our driver shouted, and we sped forward. 

Photos by Jennifer Merrick, leopardess photo by Nuwan Mahawattage

There was no stopping for wildlife now until we arrived at a spot lined with other jeeps. There had been a leopardess sitting on the rocks, but she had climbed down and was nowhere to be seen. Guides and passengers alike scanned the brush continuously. Time was limited. The sun was setting, signalling the closing of the park, and guides faced large fines if they stayed after hours.

Suddenly, fingers were pointing, and animated whispered conversations in multiple languages broke the charged silence.

“Over there,” our guide told us. But all I could see through the binoculars was a peacock.

“I see it,” said a member of our group and then another. Finally, the leopardess came into focus, and we watched as she sauntered gracefully up the rocks and lay down on the top, looking very much like the queen of the wild.

Back at the Jetwing Jungle Lodge, we were greeted with hot towels and drinks. Later, dinner at the outdoor dining pavilion was a private indulgence with only the sounds of the jungle as background music. Guests in the lodge’s ten freestanding bungalows have the choice of this dining experience or joining the main resort (Jetwing Yala) for a buffet dinner.

I asked Buddhini where most of the guests come from. 

“Australia first, followed by the UK and then India,” she told us. What about North Americans? A few Americans. Canadians? She paused as she thought. “There might have been one couple,” she said with a question mark in her voice.

I expect this will change as more Canadians discover how much Sri Lanka offers visitors. Though this safari was a memorable ending to our visit, it was far from the only extraordinary experience we had on this jewel of an island.

Here were our top highlights to recommend to your clients:

Sigiriya Rock Fortress

Photo courtesy of Sri Lanka Tourism

This iconic UNESCO World Heritage Site, known as the “Lion Rock,” dates back to the 5th century and features ancient frescoes, water gardens and the remains of a royal palace on its summit. The views at the top alone were worth the 1,200 steps to get here.

Temple of the Tooth Relic

Photo by Jennifer Merrick

Located in Kandy, Sri Lanka’s second largest city, it is one of the most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites in the world and houses a sacred relic believed to be a tooth of the Buddha. I loved seeing the lotus bouquets placed on the shrines and watching families bring their children to receive blessings.

Giragama Tea Factory

Photos by Jennifer Merrick

One of the oldest tea estates in the region, Giragama offers visitors an introduction to Sri Lanka’s tea tradition, an internationally respected industry that dates back over 150 years. First, we took a guided tour of the production process and then sipped tea while enjoying a high tea feast of sandwiches, patisseries and hors d’oeuvres. Afterwards, we were dressed in pickers’ garments, and a basket was placed around our heads to try our hand at plucking the leaves of the tea plant ourselves.

Ride the Rails

Photos by Jennifer Merrick

The journey from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya is considered one of the most scenic in the world, passing through lush countryside, tea plantations, waterfalls and villages. The train was slow, but time flew by as we snapped pictures through the open windows and enjoyed refreshments in the dining car. Our destination, Nuwara Eliya, known as “Little England” for its colonial architecture, was a cool place to stay, with temperatures about ten degrees lower than the coastal towns.

All of these memorable moments, along with many more throughout our journey, were thoughtfully curated by Whittalls Travels. With more than 30 years of experience operating in Sri Lanka, the company is known for its knowledgeable guides, well-planned itineraries and strong local partnerships. Their expertise gave us a seamless introduction to the country’s culture, wildlife and landscapes, and ensured that our FAM tour showcased the very best of this remarkable island.